Rabbits
Rabbits are very different animals from dogs and cats and require a different approach to their medicine, surgery and anaesthesia. They also have their own unique behaviour and health issues. At Acorn House we see a large number of rabbits and they are among our particular interests.
We would advise all prospective new rabbit owners to research this pet well before buying (please see our FREE RABBIT INFORMATION PACKS). Many children will quickly grow out of their interest in this pet - after all few things remain top of their interest list for up to 9 years! Adults are then often left to look after the pet. This can have its advantages as they are becoming a popular pet for the adult too which is reflected in the rising number of house rabbits.
Rabbits are sociable animals that prefer company and need a lot of space to move around and excercise. Some local pet shop's advice we have heard is that they only need a small hutch and are fine by themselves. Shame on those shops! Rabbits can fight though and also are very good at reproducing. Litter mates may be fine growing up together but the best pairing is commonly said to be a neutered buck and a neutered female.
Rabbits can be expensive to keep too. They need a large hutch and run, a correct diet, bedding and any associated vet fees (from vaccinations to treatment for the ill rabbit). As there is no NHS for our pets, many owners now insure their pets. We recommend this is taken out for rabbits to help with any treatment fees. By law we can no longer advise on individual policies as we are not a member of the FSA. However we do have leaflets at reception and encourage you to do some research as policies vary widely.
Our FREE RABBIT INFORMATION PACKS are available from reception with invaluable advice on keeping a rabbit. Drop in for one or you can ring reception and they will send one in the post to you. We also would suggest looking at the Rabbit Welfare Association website (www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk) which provides excellent information.
We recommend that all new rabbits have a complete and thorough health check by one of our vets and that this is repeated on an annual basis. Owners are encouraged to vaccinate their rabbits against Myxomatosis every 6 months and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease every 12 months. We can discuss any questions at the appointment and give general advice about diet, fleas and worming for example. We stock rabbit food and hay for general sale.
We advise neutering of your rabbit from approximately 5 months of age. This can help with behavioural issues but is especially important for does (females) as it completely prevents a nasty form of cancer in them in later life.
Rabbit Diets
Most health problems in rabbits stem from a poor diet – feeding your rabbit correctly can help prevent a lot of future problems.
In the wild rabbits eat rough grass and vegetation, so they are designed to be chewing for most of the day.
Good quality hay is the best foundation of a good diet for your rabbit, it means they are chewing and nibbling for a large portion of the day, keeping them busy and preventing boredom. Chewing hay also helps them wear their teeth properly as rabbits teeth continually grow throughout life, so need a good high fibre diet to keep their teeth healthy.
A high fibre diet also helps keep your rabbits gut healthy and working properly to ferment their food.
In addition to hay, rabbits should have access to a large selection of leafy greens and vegetables. Many pet shops tell new rabbit owners not to feed too many greens as it will give the rabbit diarrhoea, but this is not true! As long as any new food or diet is introduced gradually, it is healthy for a rabbit to feed on greens. Keep your new bunny on the same diet for the first few weeks you have them to avoid gut upsets, then gradually change onto your new diet regime over several weeks. Start with very small amounts of greens at a time, and increase this gradually over the next few months.
Pelleted rabbit mix or rabbit muesli should only be fed as a very small component of a rabbits diet. Muesli mixes look more attractive, but this allows your bunny to pick and choose their favourite bits, so they may not be getting all the nutrients the diet provides. A single pelleted diet avoids this problem, and we would recommend this in preference to a muesli style diet.
Pelleted mixes are all very high in calories, and disintegrate when your bunny chews them, so rabbits just fed on this tend to be overweight and have dental problems. They are fine as a small portion of the diet, but think of them more as a treat.
Water:
Rabbits drink lots of water, so should always have a fresh supply readily available, particularly in hot weather. You can provide water in either a water bowl or a sipper bottle, or ideally both. Remember to change their water daily.
Treats:
Rabbits all like treats just like us – but too much sugary and starchy food can lead to potentially fatal gut upsets. Stick to healthy options like carrot, broccoli, swede or turnip peelings, and cauliflower stalks. See below for a list of safe herbs and vegetation that can be fed as treats, as well as a list of plants to avoid.
Rabbits love to chew things, so providing them with safe ‘toys’ they can chew also counts as a treat – try filling a cardboard toilet roll with hay for them to play with, or willow toys for them to chew.
Healthy Greens/Treats:
Asparagus, Baby Sweetcorn, Beetroot (not the tops), Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots and Carrot Tops (in moderation as carrots are high in sugar), Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Chicory, Courgette, Cucumber, Curly Kale, Green Beans, Parsnip, Peas (leaves, pods and seeds), Peppers, Pumpkin, Swede, Turnip, Squash, Radish Tops, Rocket, Romaine Lettuce (not Iceberg or other very light leaved varieties), Spinach, Spring Greens, Watercress.
Herbs – may take some getting used to as very strong flavours!
Basil, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Oregano, Rosemary.
Wild herbs/Flowers:
Alfalfa, Beech, Beechnuts, Borage, Calendula, Camomile, Chickweed (Astringent), Clover (leaves and flowers), Coltsfoot, Comfrey, Corn Marigold, Corn Spurry, Cow Parsley, Daisy, Dandelion, Fruit Trees, Groundsel, Goosegrass (Cleavers), Hawthorn Berries, Hazel, Hogweed, Knotted Persicaria, Lady’s Thumb, Lavender, Lucerne, Mallow, Meadow Horsetail, Nettle, Nasturtium (leaves and flowers), Oxeye, Plantain, Shepherds Purse, Sow Thistle, Sunflower, Thistle, Vetch, Wheat and Barley, Willow, Yarrow.
Fruits – up to a maximum of 2 tablespoons a day
Apple (no pips), Apricot, Banana, Blackberries, Blueberries, Cherries, Grapes, Kiwi, Mango, Melon, Nectarines, Oranges (not the peel), Papaya, Peaches, Pears, Pineapple, Plums, Raspberries, Strawberries, Tomatoes (not the leaves).
Dangerous Plants:
These plants are harmful, and should be avoided – if you have these in your garden and are letting your rabbit run loose then you need to take these out or fence them off.
Anemone, Azalea, Bluebells, Bittersweet, Bryony, Buttercups, Caladium, Columbine, Cyclamen, Daffodils, Dog Mercury, Deadly Nightshade, Elder, Figwort, Fools Parsley, Foxglove, Hellebore, Hemlock, Henbane, Kingcup, Leyland Cypress, Marsh Marigold, Meadow Saffron, Mistletoe, Monkshood, Ragwort, Spurges, St. Johns Wort and Woody Nightshade.
Your garden may also contain cultivated plants that may cause illness such as:
Antirrhinums, Chrysanthemums, Clematis, Dahlias, Delphinium, Fig, Holly, Hyacinth, Irises, Ivy, Jerusalem Cherry, Juniper, Laburnum, Larkspur, Lobelia, Lords and Ladies, Lupins, Lily of the Valley, Morning Glory, Philodendron, Poppies, Potato Tops, Privet, Rhododendron, Rhubarb, Tulips, Wisteria, Yew and most evergreen trees.
All plants that grow from bulbs are potentially toxic.
If you are thinking of getting a rabbit or have one and unsure about some aspects of looking after it, please
- ask one of our vets or nurses for advice
- pick up one of our rabbit packs
- read up at the Rabbit Welfare Association website
If you would like any further information just contact us and we will do our best to help.
We look forward to meeting you and your rabbit.